Known as Colombia’s “White City” located in the Andes mountains. Offering a blend of colonial architecture, culture and history. With a 2025 population around 350,000, it’s a mid-sized gem.
Popayan is a UNESCO City of Gastronomy, that is luring retirees who want culture on the cheap, without the coastal humidity or big city hustle.
My overall opinion of Popayan is at the end of this report.
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Cost of Living
Life in Popayan is a bargain in my experience, considerably cheaper than the major destinations for foreigners like Medellin, Cartagena, Bogota etc. Yet Popayan still offers a very nice lifestyle.
Of course, this is subjective based on how much you can spend and the lifestyle you want, but in my particular case, I would have no problem living a very nice life here for between US$1,000-1,500 monthly.
Note: Cost of living numbers are very subjective and dependent on your individual lifestyle.
Remember… “One man’s trash is another man’s treasure.”
Healthcare
The healthcare system in Popayan is solid for Colombia, not on par with Medellin or Bogota, but good for everyday needs. The city has invested in facilities over the years, with access to specialists and advanced care.
Below are the better clinics and hospitals according to locals and retirees I met in Popayan.
- Hospital Universitario San José ESE – https://hospitalsanjose.gov.co – Location & Reviews
- Clínica San Rafael de Popayán – https://stewardcolombia.org – Location & Reviews
Real Estate
Popayan is shaped like a fish with the split tail being the better areas to live.
Closed or gated communities (Conjuntos) are very popular and dotted all over Popayan.
The best neighborhoods or zones are in the north of Popayan. The zone around Centro Comercial Campanario and anything north is considered by locals to be the best area to live in Popayan.
Note: Avoid the south of Popayan around Villa Helena & San Andres etc, south of downtown (Centro).
The most desirable neighborhoods are listed below:
La Playa
This is the area I would live in and the best area of Popayan in my opinion.
It is very close to Centro Comercial Campanario the best mall in Popayan.
Zone 1
New development in the north with a mix of apartment buildings and gated communities.
Zone 2
A mix of new and older gated communities.
Zone 3
Lots of older gated communities. Also close to Centro Comercial Terra Plaza.
An interactive map showing the most desirable neighborhoods highlighted in red.
Below is a POV (point of view) video showing the most desirable neighborhoods.
This will give you a good feel for the neighborhoods from the perspective of riding around.
Real Estate Websites
Although these websites and Facebook Groups are in Spanish, they are very easy to translate into English, with Facebook offering automatic translation.
Mitula (Spanish)
Fincaraiz (Spanish)
Facebook Marketplace is also popular in Colombia for listing real estate rentals.
This link will take you directly to the rental listings in Popayan.
Climate
Average temperatures range between 57°F (14°C) at night and 75°F (24°C) during the day.
Transport
Very easy to move around the city using taxis, buses or motos.
Taxis are metered here, so makes daily life a little less stressful.
Airport
Popayan is home to the Guillermo León Valencia (PPN), which provides regular service to primarily Bogota via Avianca, Satena, and Clic airlines.
Shopping
Popayan has two major shopping malls.
Centro Comercial Campanario is a great mall with closed and open areas.
Lots of shops and eating options. This is one of the best malls I have visited in Colombia.
- Centro comercial Campanario – Location & Reviews
- Centro comercial Terra Plaza – Location & Reviews
Amazon, Mercado Libre, and all the major couriers deliver in and around Popayan.
Security
Popayan is regarded as a safe city, with lower crime rates than other Colombian destinations. Stick to the city and main routes.
Lifestyle
This is Andean Colombia, a slower pace, friendly folks proud of their heritage.
Popayan is a great city for strolling around, cafe meetups, or just enjoying the slower pace of life.
The expat community is small but growing, especially retirees drawn to the culture and low costs over Medellin and other bigger cities.
Connectivity
All the major cellular and Internet services from Claro, Tigo, and others are available in Popayan. Starlink is also available in Colombia, so this is another welcome option.
Attractions
The big draws are the colonial churches and Holy Week processions.
In town: Caldas Park, Clock Tower, Morro de Tulcan pyramid.
FAQs
Living in Popayan is workable. Stick to the city and main routes, and use app or dispatch taxis.
Cali is about 85 miles north on the Pan-American Highway, usually a drive of 2.5 to 3 hours (2026). Cali’s international airport has far more routes than Popayan’s small airport, which mainly serves Bogota. Protests and security closures shut the highway several times in 2026, including a July blockade at Santander de Quilichao. Check road news before you set out.
Holy Week. Popayan’s Easter processions have run since colonial times, and in 2009 UNESCO added them to its list of the world’s intangible cultural heritage. Every evening of Holy Week, locals carry heavy carved religious floats through the whitewashed historic center. The city fills up that week, so book a stay early if you want to see them before you decide to move.
The pensioner visa (Visa M Pensionado) needs a lifetime pension of at least three Colombian minimum wages a month. In 2026 that is COP 5,252,715, or about $1,663 at the October 2026 exchange rate. Social Security counts as a pension. You also need an apostilled police record, a medical certificate and health insurance that covers you in Colombia. The visa lasts up to three years.
Yes. Colombia is on Social Security’s International Direct Deposit list, so your benefit can go straight into a Colombian bank account (2026). The enrollment form is SSA-1199-OP69. Medicare does not pay for care in Colombia, but pensioner-visa retirees can join an EPS, Colombia’s public health plan, once they hold a cedula de extranjeria, and pay a monthly contribution based on income.
Resources
Below is a list of resources I recommend if you want to take a deeper dive into Popayan.
General Information
Wikipedia – https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Popayan
Local News
Proclama del Cauca (Spanish)
Colombia1 (English)
Cars and Motorcycles for Sale
Mercado Libre Carros (Spanish)
Mercado Libre Motos (Spanish)
My Opinion
I would have no problem living in Popayan.
You do not see many foreigners and it offers a more authentic living experience.
The people are a little more conservative than in some other parts of Colombia, but found them friendly and happy.
The main reason for not living here is the cooler, rainier climate. Not a major issue for me, I’m from the UK 🙂
If you love history, food, and don’t mind the chill, Popayan offers a very affordable gem for retirement in Colombia.
Photos
A selection of random photos I have taken visiting Popayan.
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